The arrival of the monsoon signals relief from the scorching summer heat and also heralds the season of vibrant greenery and fresh produce. This time of year is particularly cherished for its bounty of monsoon vegetables, which play a central role in local cuisine and culinary traditions. We can celebrate monsoon through the cultivation of these seasonal delights.
In Goa, agriculture has deep roots in tradition and culture, enriched by the State's rich biodiversity that enhances its scenic and aesthetic beauty. The monsoon season brings with it a variety of local vegetables that thrive in the rain-drenched soil. Staple crops like rice, along with an array of leafy greens, gourds, long beans, okra, and root vegetables, flourish during this time. These vegetables not only add diversity to the local diet but also contribute significantly to the nutritional intake of the population.
Farmers meticulously plan their crop rotations and prepare their fields to maximize the yield of monsoon vegetables. Traditional farming methods, passed down through generations, involve ploughing the soil before the monsoons to expose and kill soil-borne pathogens and weed seeds by exposing the soil to direct sunlight. This practice keeps the soil fertile and capable of supporting these seasonal crops. Adding organic matter such as green leaf manures like Gliricidia and sun hemp increases the soil's nutrient value. Proper water channels and slopes are also prepared in fields to improve soil porosity and prevent waterlogging.
Proper selection of monsoon vegetables is crucial for healthy and better yields. Farmers choose from a variety of gourds like bitter gourd, ash gourd, ridge gourd, and bottle gourd. Planting involves creating circular mounds 30cm high and 50cm wide, with three seeds sown 2 inches deep in each hill. The depth of the seed sowing is usually kept double the size of the seed. Trellising is an important practice to guide gourd vines and support the weight of the fruit without damaging the plant. For those with limited space, growing cucumbers and gourds on terraces and balconies in pots of 14 to 16 inches, with bamboo trellising within the pot, is a viable option.
For vegetables like okra and maize that grow like shrubs, preparing ridges and furrows with a spacing of 45cm between plants and 60cm between rows provides adequate support for plant height and root development. Growing shrub vegetables in pots requires selecting pots of 14 to 16 inches with one plant per pot. For leafy vegetables, preparing raised beds 50cm high and 60cm wide with appropriate drainage is essential to prevent water logging and root diseases. Timely weeding, staking, trellising, earthing up with manure application, and mulching (using organic covers like coconut coir, dry leaves, or plastic mulch to prevent soil erosion) are crucial intercultural operations for optimal vegetable growth.
Goan cuisine is renowned for its use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and monsoon vegetables are no exception. Dishes like ‘sorak’, a tangy curry made with seasonal vegetables, especially ‘sat shiracho bhendo’, and ‘tambdi bhaji’, a vibrant red leafy vegetable preparation, are popular during this time. Each dish reflects the rich flavours and cultural diversity that define Goan cooking. Fishermen also play a crucial role during the monsoon season, as fresh catches of fish complement vegetable-centric meals, creating a harmonious balance of flavours unique to Goan cuisine.
Goa continues to evolve, so does its agricultural landscape and culinary traditions. The integration of modern farming techniques alongside traditional practices ensures that the legacy of monsoon vegetable cultivation remains vibrant and sustainable. Efforts to promote organic farming and support local agriculture are crucial in preserving Goa's natural beauty and cultural heritage.
The monsoon season in Goa is not just a weather phenomenon but a celebration of life, culture, and culinary heritage. The abundance of monsoon vegetables enriches local cuisine and brings communities together in joyous festivities. Through sustainable practices and a deep appreciation for nature's gifts, Goans continue to nurture their land and savour the seasonal delights that the monsoon brings.
(The writer, a BSc in Agriculture, is a NABARD awardee ‘Women Achiever’ and Proprietor at Priyanka Gardening Services, as well as an expert in organic agriculture and food landscaping)