Beach shacks swap seafood for idli-sambar as demand shifts

PANAJI 
While idli-sambar being served in beach shacks is not going down well with some sections of Goans, the fact remains that South Indian delicacies and noodles have already begun dominating the menu. Shack owners argue that they have no choice but to serve what sells.

The influx of weekend tourists, particularly from South India and Gujarat, has forced shacks to offer idli-sambar, dosas, medu vadas and noodles instead of traditional Goan cuisine. Meanwhile, North Indian food remains a popular choice, also considering the influx of Delhi and NCR visitors.

Several shack owners, speaking to The Goan conceded that Goan seafood, once the pride of these beachside eateries, now barely find takers.

“Getting even a single seafood order in a day feels like a blessing. We unfortunately have a lot of budget-conscious domestic tourists... The quality of tourists has dropped. Shack operators are serving food based on demand. They cannot afford to lose even these customers,” President of Traditional Shack Owners Association Manuel Cardoso said.

The crowded beach stretches in Bardez have been the most hit while only a handful of shacks in South Goa switched to the South Indian menu.

“There have been no seafood customers for the last four years. That itself shows how non-Goan food has taken over our beach shacks,” Cardoso added.

Another shack owner Daisy Nunes pointed out that the decline of Goan cuisine is also due to the difficulty in finding local cooks. “Goan spices and masalas are exclusive to our cuisine. Unlike generic spice mixes, cafreal masala cannot be used for anything other than cafreal, and fish curry masala is specific to our dishes. This uniqueness makes Goan food special, but it has also made it easier for non-Goan food to take over,” she said.

Shack operators lament that Indian tourists, though large in number, are unwilling to spend much on food. International tourists, on the other hand, traditionally spent weeks or even months in Goa, showing a willingness to pay for authentic Goan cuisine.

“Indian tourists come for one or two days, whereas foreigners stay for a minimum of two weeks, sometimes up to six months. They prefer our food and are not as price-sensitive since everything here is cheaper than in their country,” another shack operator representing the Traditional Shack Owners Association said.

Apart from changing food preferences, the alleged sub-letting of shacks to non-Goans has further diluted the authenticity of Goan beachside dining. With shack licences costing around Rs 3 lakh and construction expenses soaring to Rs 7-8 lakh, many owners resort to illegality to recover costs.

“The shack business has been ruined... Before COVID-19, it was manageable but now there are no jobs, no business, no salaries. Indian tourists don’t want to pay even Rs 40 for a simple drink. This is the state of affairs,” Cardoso lamented.

“I have personally seen a well-dressed couple shockingly looking at the menu card and walking away with just one glass of lemonade,” Dominic D’Cruz, another operator said.

Shack operators are now pushing for e-visas and visa-on-arrival facilities to bring back international tourists. The association also sought that shack policy return to an annual licensing system instead of the current three-year term to curb illegal sub-letting.