The Goan Catholic buffet is seldom complete without a dish of pork vindalho on the table. Well, it could now turn into almost a must have, as the dish has been voted among the top 20 pork dishes in the world.
Coming as quite a bit of amazement, Tasteatlas.com that has listed out the 100 best pork dishes in the world has placed ‘vindaloo’ from Goa at number 19, sandwiched between Italy’s porchetta at 18 and the Chinese twice cooked pork at 20.
Chefs in Goa have given the thumbs up to the listing of vindalho or vindaloo as it is getting called and has thus been named on Tasteatlas.com, raising from traditionalists frowns of displeasure at the nomenclature.
Yet, one has to admit that Tasteatlas.com does mention that ‘the name of the dish stems from the mispronounced Portuguese dish called ‘carne de vinha d’alhos’, meaning ‘meat marinated in wine vinegar and garlic’.
Speaking to The Goan, Peter Fernandes who runs the restaurant Chef Peter’s Kitchen at Pilerne said, “It’s very good thing to happen for pork vindalho especially since our food has not been showcased globally.”
It may come as a surprise, but vindalho is a favourite with tourists in Goa.
“I get surprised when I get orders from North Indian tourists for vindalho. At times, some may not understand what vindalho is, but they want to have it. Once they have been served the dish, there have always been good reviews,” Fernandes said.
Agreeing with him, Restaurateur Margarida Tavora, who for years ran Chef Fernando’s Nostalgia at Raia said, “Vindalho is possibly the most favourite of dishes with tourists and especially Indians. It has become so popular that now they make vindalho of everything, even vegetables. At our restaurant it was a top selling dish.”
From the traditional pork, vindalho is now being made with other meats and vegetables too.
Fernandes said, “Vindalho is done mainly of pork, but it can be done on other meats too. Mutton vindalho turns out great. I have also done vindalho of ladyfingers (okra) with potatoes and brinjal.”
Tavora, however, is a stickler for tradition. “Vindalho is made of pork. Chicken and prawn vindalho came much later, and were aimed at tourism.”
Traditionalist that she is, Tavora, as most other Goans, stress that the dish has to be called “vindalho” and not “vindaloo”. That, they say, must be the first task of Goan foodies, to ensure that the name is not corrupted.
Dr Lourdes Bravo da Costa Rodrigues who has written books on Goan food also pointedly made a reference to the dish now being called “vindaloo” and explained why it was not “vindaloo.”
She said, “Vindalho was adapted from the original Portuguese to Goan cuisine and we have made our own vindalho. It is vinha da alho, which is wine and garlic, but for us, when we make it in Goa, instead of wine we use vinegar.”
Tasteatlas does make a reference to it, when it describes the dish and says, “The Portuguese explorers brought the dish to Goa in the 15th century, when it was adjusted to local conditions – since there was no wine vinegar in India. The Franciscan priests made their own version with palm wine. Many Indian spices were incorporated into the dish, such as tamarind, cinnamon, cardamom, and hot chillis.”
So, what next for the dish? Chef Peter has a suggestion. “Our Goans who are abroad running restaurants should make this their signature dish and that’s how it will get promoted,” Fernandes said.
A week ago, The Goan on its Global Goenkar page featured a Goan chef in the UK who has made vindalho his signature dish.
Chef Francisco Marques had told The Goan that vindalho was his signature dish, his passion, a piece of his heart, and cooking it brought him immense joy.
So, at least one Goan chef has already made vindalho his signature dish. It may need some more chefs in Goa, India and the rest of the world to promote Goan pork vindalho, with the very special Goan vinegar and take it to the number one position when the next list of 100 best pork dishes are listed.
Goan chef Francisco Marques has made pork vindalho his signature dish in the UK.
