Larder + Folk, nestled in Panaji’s Sao Tome ward, has quickly become a favourite, serving scrumptious offerings in a warm, welcoming space. The Goan delves deeper into the café's journey, exploring Chef Priyanka Sardessai’s story and the community she's built
Nestled in the historic Sao Tome ward of Panaji, Larder + Folk is a cosy café known for its exquisite flavours. Surrounded by colourful homes, the café, owned by Chef Priyanka Sardessai, began as a home-based venture in 2020. What started with baking bread in her mother’s kitchen has since evolved into a destination for fresh, indulgent dishes.
Beginnings
The café's journey began during the first lockdown when Priyanka began preparing dishes she loved and offering them as weekend orders. She created an Instagram page, and before long, the orders began to pour in quickly gaining momentum.
From takeaway to café
"I didn’t mean for it to be a café. It was supposed to be just a takeaway space. So, just 700 meters away, we had the old unit," Priyanka recalls. "Before that, we would just do app-based delivery, with the same sort of menu, whatever we felt like eating. We were doing a lot of trial and testing. And then that's when the Bombolinis exploded." As the business grew, Priyanka realised a café was the right direction. "The more I worked on it, the more I leaned towards a café," she says.
Dream location
After two years of running the takeaway space, she found the perfect location in Sao Tome in 2023. "It was a dream being in Sao Tome," she shares. "We set this place up within 9 months, and we’ve completed a year here."
Culinary roots and vision
Priyanka’s journey with Larder + Folk is shaped by her roots in Panaji, where she grew up, and her experience at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. “I know Panaji, and it’s changing. I want to be a part of that change,” she says with conviction.
Diverse menu offerings
Larder + Folk offers a diverse menu curated by Priyanka which includes fresh bread, bold condiments, and well-seasoned proteins. Favourites include 'The OG' buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, roast beef sandwiches, along with noodle bowls, and bagels among other items.
Desserts include fajores, chocolate chip cookies, and savoury Hot Honey doughnuts with fried chicken. Sweet options feature tiramisu, butterscotch, and dark chocolate bombolinis. The café also offers pantry items like babka, challah, and Hokkaido milk bread.
Experimenting with flavors
Priyanka also creates unique flavours and combinations at Larder + Folk based on what she loves to eat. "I make food that I want to eat," she says. The menu has no set theme; it's about experimenting with different flavours and textures. "I like the sweet and salty balance, and I don't want it to be super linear."
Her team participates in tastings for new dishes, providing feedback on what works. Priyanka’s personal favourite is the chicken pot pie, though she also loves the roast beef sandwich and BLT.
"I'm surprised sometimes, especially when people order the hot honey fried chicken for breakfast," Priyanka laughs. "But it makes sense. It's really good." Larder + Folk’s menu also taps into nostalgia with small savoury items like pork and chicken sausage rolls, and classic smoked chicken salad sandwiches. "We’re working on a chutney sandwich next," she reveals.
Customer feedback, especially from regulars, also plays a key role in shaping the menu. “I like interacting with the guests. We have a lot of regulars who are genuine with their feedback and tell us what they like. So I try to include that also into the menu now," she says.
Inspired by family
Priyanka’s love for cooking and baking was inspired by her mother, who opened her own restaurant in Calangute in the early 2000s. "I’d participate in food festivals with her, helping around," she recalls. The experience ignited her passion for food, though the industry was looked down upon at the time.
B.Com to culinary success
Initially, Priyanka pursued B.Com, with plans to head into law or accounting. But she soon realised the 9-to-5 lifestyle wasn’t for her. "It just didn’t appeal to me," she says.
Preserving history in design
The design of Larder + Folk is a blend of personal memories and an ode for the space's history. Priyanka, alongside her cousin, aimed to preserve the charm of the 160-year-old building. "The walls hold 90% of the charm of this place," she says, adding “we left them exposed to maintain their character.”
The café’s décor is filled with family treasures and sentimental items that intertwine the past and present. "The décor items are from my ancestral home. We’ve included paintings, archives, and pieces passed down from my grandfathers," Priyanka shares. From books and records to keepsakes, each item is a treasure trove of memories. "My husband is a photographer, the pictures taken by him are also displayed here," Priyanka says.
A family-led venture
Priyanka and her husband run the cafe, each playing crucial roles. When they started, it was just the two of them, with Priyanka handling the cooking, packing, finances, and ordering, while her husband focused on packaging, logistics, and the creative side, including designing the brand and logo. As the team grew, the delegation came naturally, and they now have a strong, trained team with clear responsibilities. However, Priyanka still oversees finances and food.
Speaking about balancing it all, Priyanka says, "I have a great team. My chefs and I work on the same wavelength, and it's about being a good leader. If there’s clarity and efficiency in how things are delegated, the work reflects that." Despite the growth, Priyanka remains involved in the kitchen.
Embracing healthy competition
Priyanka sees the growing number of cafes in Sao Tome as healthy competition. "There’s a good restaurant community in Goa, and I've never felt animosity," she says. While new restaurants can impact business, Priyanka focuses on staying creative. "We’ve survived for four years, even with many opening and shutting," she adds. For now, she feels the competition remains balanced.
Representing Goa with pride
Priyanka takes great pride in representing Goa through her café, particularly in Panaji. She feels a sense of accomplishment knowing that her establishment has become one of the top spots in the city. "It's a proud moment for all of us, especially for me," she shares. Her parents, who grew up in Panaji, also share in her joy.
The café has become a favourite among locals and tourists who bring warmth to the space. "I always aim to stay consistent and creative, adding new things to the menu, hoping that people continue to enjoy what we offer," she says.
A café that feels like home
But beyond the food, it’s the connections she has made with the locals that truly matter. "I feel at home here. The café has become like a living room where everyone feels welcome, and we end up sitting, chatting, and sharing stories. That’s the real joy of what we do,” she adds.
