Carlito's Attique: A nostalgic tribute to Goan and Portuguese culinary heritage

Nestled in the heart of Agaçaim, a quaint Goan village known for its lush green fields and serene, unhurried pace of life, lies Carlito’s Attique. Crafted by Carlos Gonsalves, this place is more than just a restaurant it’s a tribute to Goa’s rich culinary and cultural heritage. Serving dishes inspired by Goan and Portuguese traditions, Carlito’s Attique welcomes visitors into a retro setting, reminiscent of classic Goan homes.

Rooted in heritage

For Gonsalves, Carlito’s Attique is the realisation of a long-held dream rooted in his Goan heritage. “Agaçaim is my original home, where I come from,” he shares. “Though I spent most of my youth in Panaji, I always dreamed of opening my restaurant.”

That dream first took shape in 1996, when Gonsalves launched Coco Loco Garden Pub and Restaurant. “Back then, I was a novice,” he admits. “But I learned the ropes slowly.” By 2001, he ventured into the wedding market, a move he describes as “lucrative and much higher paying than running a restaurant.” However, it meant putting his restaurant aspirations on hold.

Revival amidst challenges

Fast forward to 2019, Gonsalves revived his original passion and opened a restaurant again - only to face the challenges of the pandemic six months later. “We had to shut down, and for three years, I worked at Vasco da Gama Club in Panaji, managing food operations,” he says. In January 2023, Gonsalves came full circle, reopening his restaurant with a fresh start and an expanded space. “This time, we added an open area, a new setup to enhance the experience,” he says proudly. Thus, Carlito’s Attique was born, a place that blends his love for Goan and Portuguese influences with a dash of nostalgia.

Back to roots

When Gonsalves reopened Carlito’s Attique in January 2023, it wasn’t just about reviving a restaurant, it was about returning to his roots and rediscovering his passion for serving authentic Goan food. “When we first started, we only had the AC section,” Gonsalves explains. “The open section was added last year. It was a slow process we wanted to build confidence and refine our approach after so many years away from the restaurant scene.”

Inspired by memories

For Gonsalves, Carlito’s Attique is a tribute to the flavours and traditions that shaped his childhood. Inspired by his father, who introduced him to the finest restaurants in Goa, Gonsalves’s dream has always been to bring back the magic of those unforgettable meals. “The dream started when my father used to take me out as a kid to some of the best restaurants in Panaji,” Gonsalves shares. “Back in the 70s, Panaji had some of the finest restaurants. That experience stayed with me, the warmth of home-cooked food and the joy of dining out. Today, my dream is to replicate that magic, the kind of meals your mama or granny would make, and bring it to life here.”

The true essence of Carlito’s Attique lies in its cuisine. “Goan food is our forte,” Gonsalves says. “That’s what the restaurant is all about, serving authentic flavours that resonate with our roots.”

Essence of Goan cuisine

At Carlito’s Attique, Gonsalves serves up a menu of cherished Goan dishes that hold a special place in the hearts of locals. These are the flavours many grew up with, featuring traditional delights like beef roulade, sorpotel, sausage pulao, and Goan snacks. “When it comes to dishes close to my heart, beef roulade is one of the top ones,” Gonsalves explains. “It takes a lot of patience to prepare, marinating the meat, slicing and hammering it, rolling it up with beans and croquette. Sorpotel is another essential, along with sausage pulao and beef stew. These are the kinds of dishes that are not easily found everywhere; they’re homemade and you can’t have a feast without them.” Another dish that stands out is the Hindu Saraswat curry, made using the special Dhargal chilli. “It has a unique flavour that makes all the difference,” he says. “It’s something we only make on weekends, and the chilli is key to its distinct taste.”

Quality ingredients

Gonsalves also takes a hands-on approach to the restaurant’s ingredients, particularly when it comes to sourcing fresh fish and meats. “I go to the market with my wife to pick out the fish and meats,” he explains. “I’ve always done it myself, but for the last few months, she’s been more involved. I don’t trust anyone else with the fish, though. I have a special rapport with the fisher folks, and I know the pricing and quality like the back of my hand.”

Nostalgic ambience

The ambience of Carlito’s Attique is a reflection of Gonsalves’s creativity, love for Goan heritage, and connection to his past. Every corner of the restaurant tells a story, blending Portuguese influences, traditional Goan flair, and personal touches crafted by Gonsalves himself. “This place is my creation,” Gonsalves shares proudly. “There’s no architect involved, just me, my carpenter, and my mason working together in my workshop. Some of the furniture here is very old and comes from my house.”

Among these treasured pieces are four chairs that hold a special place in Gonsalves’s heart. “The dining chairs here are from my childhood,” he reminisces. “I remember sitting on them for meals, but also falling asleep on them after a long day.”

A personal touch

While Gonsalves doesn’t cook in the kitchen himself, he plays a crucial role in ensuring the food tastes just right. His sharp taste buds, honed from a young age, make him the perfect critic for his dishes. “I don’t cook, but I do taste everything to make sure it’s perfect—whether it’s the salt or the spices,” Gonsalves explains. “From a young age, I was introduced to a good line of food, so my taste buds are very sharp. It’s an ongoing process, with constant back-and-forth in the kitchen. Goan cuisine isn’t perfect right away. You’ve got to keep tasting, adjusting, and reinventing it, whether it’s adding more spice or a touch of tamarind.”

Connecting with customer

Gonsalves holds his customers close to his heart, with their support as a constant motivation source. “One of my favourite things is seeing my regular customers return,” Gonsalves shares. “Sometimes, when things are slow and I’m questioning myself, their return brings me a big smile. It reminds me that what I’m doing is worth it. Just their presence and the fact that they’re enjoying the food is enough to keep me going.”

A place for memories

Through his restaurant, Gonsalves has created a space where memories are made, a place where the recipes of yore blend seamlessly with the present.