Flavours of the past savoured in the present at Panaji's Public Cafe

As the world welcomed the 1970s with an air of optimism, Goa too was embracing a fresh chapter. Portuguese rule had ended only a decade earlier, and while the Northern beaches were starting to attract the free-spirited wave of hippies, Panaji, the capital city, was evolving into a bustling commercial hub. Back then, it was still a place of simplicity and demureness, distinctly Goan in its quiet allure.

Birth of Public Cafe

While all this was happening, Shrikant Vishnu Salkar opened the doors to Public Cafe on December 21, 1975, offering locals and visitors a taste of the warmth and comfort that defined Panaji through its food. Decades later, in 2016, Sainath Salkar, his grandson, took over the cafe to continue its legacy. Reflecting on that time, Sainath shares, “Panaji was different, with very few notable buildings like the old market, the old GMC building, which is now INOX, Don Bosco High School, and a handful of government workshops and offices.”

Yet, Sainath says that Public Cafe remains a constant, drawing in a loyal crowd of locals who grew up with the cafe’s iconic breakfast of bhaji, unde, mirchi, and tea.

Goan culinary tradition

Public Cafe’s menu has stayed true to its roots, serving traditional Goan dishes that locals crave. Favourites like egg masala, ros omelette with fresh paratha, patal bhaji, sukhi bhaji, tomato usal, and sweet treats such as sweet buns and makkam peda have hardly changed over the years. “Our core customers still come for the traditional Goan breakfast. They’ve been enjoying these dishes for decades,” Sainath shares.

Secret family recipe

Behind the flavour of each dish lies a family secret—a homemade garam masala recipe handed down from Sainath's grandmother, which is now prepared by his mother and has become a staple ingredient at the cafe.

Embracing change

Over the years, Public Cafe has had to adapt to Panaji's evolving urban landscape and its changing customer base. The cafe has seen a steady mix of younger customers who come in search of Goan heritage cuisine, introduced to Public Cafe through its growing social media presence. While Public Cafe remains a go-to for classic Goan flavours, Sainath keeps the menu fresh, adding new items based on customer suggestions. “I take feedback from customers and adapt the menu as per their tastes,” he explains.

Navigating challenges

Despite the cafe’s resilience, challenges have not been few. Rising costs of ingredients, the ongoing development under the Smart City initiative, and traffic congestion have all impacted the business. “The Smart City work, the pandemic, and even the shifting of government offices out of Panaji have made things harder,” Sainath admits. He also points to the difficulty in finding skilled labour and the impact of higher electricity rates as obstacles the cafe faces in today’s economic background. Through it all, Public Cafe has continued to serve its loyal clientele, many of whom have been regulars since its opening.

Honoring rituals

Tradition is vital in how Public Cafe is run, down to the religious rituals they perform yearly. “We have an annual Satyanarayan Mahapooja in September and Laxmi Pooja in November,” Sainath shares, honouring the cultural practices that his family has upheld for generations. The rituals give the cafe a sense of continuity and respect for the legacy that Sainath’s grandfather built.

Expanding across Goa

Looking to the future, Sainath envisions expanding his Cafe across Goa to new locations where locals and visitors alike can experience authentic Goan cuisine and hospitality. “I want to grow my cafe, setting up outlets in various parts of Goa,” he shares enthusiastically.

Modern updates

While Panaji has changed, its original charm still stands, just like Public Cafe, which has preserved its original structure with a hint of modern adaptations. “We’ve updated the seating arrangements, and we’ve also done some new electrical work to improve the overall ambience,” Sainath explains.