At the heart of it all, Café Central remains the central hub of Panaji's food scene, drawing in customers with its timeless charm and flavours. Veda Raut from The Goan explores the rich history of Café Central and its secrets to success
Every few weeks, new restaurants and eateries seem to pop up at every corner, but only a few make a lasting impact. One such place is Café Central, aptly named for its central location in Panaji city. In a recent conversation with Abhijit Gayatonde, a partner and descendant of the founder, the rich history and enduring charm of this iconic spot came to light.
Humble beginnings
Café Central started as a humble sit-down café, serving traditional snacks like bhaji puri and tea. "Initially, it was a sit-down café," Abhijit recalls. "We served bhaji puri, tea, and other snacks. Then, in the 1960s, we transitioned into a bakery. My great-granduncle Atmaram Gayatonde built this building. We started the bakery on the ground floor as a takeaway.” The shift from a sit-down café to a takeaway bakery was driven by practical considerations. Abhijit explains, “At that time, it was an easier part of the business. Taxes were also lower for takeaway businesses. VAT on restaurants was around 18%, while for takeaways, it was only 5%.”
Commitment to quality
Over the years, many new cafes have sprung up in the area, but Café Central remains a favourite among locals and visitors alike. The secret to its enduring success lies in its unwavering commitment to quality. “We maintain the quality of life, and the food is good. Our loyal customers have stayed with us because of this,” Abhijit notes.
Generational recipes and new additions
The recipes at Café Central have been passed down through generations, with some recent additions enhancing the menu. “The veg patties and other items have been with us since the 1960s,” says Abhijit. “Recently, we’ve introduced new snacks and cakes. We have our own team preparing these. We are here the whole time, overseeing everything.” This dedication to maintaining high standards has earned Café Central a reputation for excellence.
Evolution and innovation
Over the years, the operations at Café Central have evolved to keep pace with modern advancements. “In the olden days, it was all wood, and now everything is steel,” Abhijit explains. “We used to have a firewood oven, but about ten years ago, we switched to electric and gas ovens due to the difficulty in sourcing wood and pollution control regulations.” These changes reflect the café’s commitment to innovation while preserving its traditional roots.
Challenges of a family business
Running a family business like Café Central comes with its challenges. “General business problems are always there—labour issues, absenteeism. We hire almost one and a half times the required staff to manage absenteeism,” says Abhijit. Despite these challenges, Café Central remains an integral part of the community. “It’s more like a habit. People are used to our products. We have customers who have been with us for 20-30 years. It’s a nostalgic connection for many.”
A steadfast community anchor
As the city evolves and new establishments emerge, Café Central remains a steadfast anchor, grounding the community in a sense of continuity and shared history. Whether you're a local seeking comfort in familiar flavours or a visitor eager to experience the authentic taste of Goa, Café Central's doors are open, inviting all to partake in a legacy that has been lovingly nurtured for generations.
