Heritage food curator Assavri Kulkarni’s (left) ‘Secret Market Walk’ as part of the Serendipity Arts Festival 2024 gave visitors an insight into the local, seasonal produce of Goa.
PANAJI: The intense relationship between a Goan and fish curry may be obviously linked to its flavourful taste, but deep in the subconscious and developed over time, the state’s staple diet is also rooted in a critically significant nutrient combo of protein sourced from fish and good fat drawn from coconut, according to heritage food curator Assavri Kulkarni.
Kulkarni, a photographer by profession, artist, and author, who has been anchoring various projects as part of the ongoing Serendipity Arts Festival (SAF) 2024, also expressed concern about depleting fish catches off the coast of Goa. She stressed that marine ecological balance hinges on adhering to traditional fish consumption patterns defined by seasons.
“Fish and coconut are inseparable. They’re like best friends in Goan cuisine. Most of our meals include coconut, no matter your religion or community. We always pair fish and coconut together; it’s the perfect combination of healthy fats and protein,” she said, suggesting that new-age fears about coconut being unhealthy and changing dietary habits were threatening this nutritious combination.
She also said that the humble fish curry, on account of its ingredients like turmeric, kokum and tamarind, is brimming with multi-vitamins, which are now being popped in the form of pills instead.
However, the expert pointed out that this beloved Goan staple faces an existential crisis due to overfishing and unsustainable practices such as LED fishing and bull trawling, citing the lived experiences of her father, Vivek Kandalgaonkar, who is closely linked to the fishing industry.
"We’ve already lost our clams and mussels. What’s available now is farmed. Lobsters, once a common delicacy, are out of reach for the average Goan, only seen on five-star menus. If we don’t embrace sustainable fishing, future generations will only recognise fish like mackerel from posters, as we do with dinosaurs today," she said.
"It’s unhealthy to consume food that doesn’t grow in its natural season. As humans, we were designed to eat seasonally, but now we’re doing the opposite, eating frozen strawberries out of season and mangoes when it’s not summer. This disrupts our systems, hormones and mental health. The same principle applies to fish and meat," Kulkarni added.
She also emphasised the importance of respecting seasonal fish cycles and traditional practices. "In winter, fatty fish like mackerel and sardines are not just tastier but also healthier. Traditionally, Goans balanced their diets with fish, coconut and rice, forming a complete meal rich in essential nutrients. Moving away from these practices disrupts not just our health but also our ecosystems," she said. She urged for greater awareness and responsibility to curb food wastage and revive sustainable fishing practices, critical to protecting Goa's marine heritage.
