Cafe Dhakuli in Mapusa still serves authentic Goan flavours through generations of the Shirodkar family. The Goan delves into Cafe Dhakuli's century-old story, where heritage stands still in a changing world
The story of Cafe Dhakuli begins with a dream of Dhakuli Shirodkar in the bustling old Mapusa market. Nestled between the Bibliotica Municipal Athaide building and the Camara Municipal Bardez, the cafe was once accessible through a quaint entrance leading to 'Angodd'—a term derived from the Kannada word 'angddi,' meaning market or shop. This entry point was a favoured route for many coming from nearby locales such as Anjuna, Assagao, and Calangute, among others.
A legacy of flavours
In those days, the market stretched from behind the Camara Municipal to near Asilo Hospital, with the Friday market being the focal point of commerce and community life. As the new market developed, Cafe Dhakuli moved to a new location but retained its essence and charm. Today, Dhakuli’s grandson, Laxmidas Shirodkar, proudly carries on the family legacy, preserving the essence of what makes Cafe Dhakuli so special.
Preserving tradition
"My grandfather started this cafe to provide for the family," shares Laxmidas, who has taken on the mantle of caretaker for this treasured spot. "The cafe is named after him, and we’ve always kept his vision alive. It’s more than just a business—it’s our family’s history."
Timeless flavours
In the early days, the old Mapusa market was a vibrant hub, with locals flocking from nearby villages to shop, socialise, and, of course, savour the food at Cafe Dhakuli. "People would come not just for the market but also for the unique flavours they could only find here," Laxmidas fondly recalls.
And those flavours are truly special. Over the decades, Cafe Dhakuli has become synonymous with authentic Goan cuisine, serving dishes that have remained unchanged for nearly a century. "Our chana bhaji, tomato bhaji, and buns are some of our most popular items," Laxmidas says with pride. "We still use the same ingredients and masalas that my grandmother used. Nothing has changed because that’s what makes our food so comforting and familiar."
Balancing heritage
with modernity
While the cafe has seen some renovations, its heart and soul remain untouched. "We’ve updated a few things here and there, but the recipes, the way we cook—that stays the same," Laxmidas explains. "It’s what my father did, and it’s what I’ll continue to do. It’s the reason people keep coming back."
A future rooted
in the past
Running a cafe with such deep roots does come with its challenges, especially as the culinary landscape of Goa continues to evolve. "There are so many new restaurants now, but we stay true to our roots," Laxmidas says. "Our customers tell us they appreciate that we haven’t changed. The food tastes just like it did when they were children, and that’s what keeps them coming back."
When asked about the future of Cafe Dhakuli, Laxmidas’s answer is clear: "No plans to expand. We want to keep it the way it is. That’s what my grandfather would have wanted."
A taste of history
Cafe Dhakuli is not just a place to grab a meal; it’s a slice of Goan history, a testament to tradition, and a community gathering spot that has stood the test of time. "This cafe is our family’s story," Laxmidas says, his voice filled with emotion. "It started with my grandfather, and I hope to pass it on to the next generation, just like it was passed on to me."
For locals and the fortunate few who discover this hidden gem, Cafe Dhakuli offers more than just food—it offers a taste of history, a reminder of simpler times, and the comforting embrace of tradition. One regular customer fondly remembers the unique "Moira banana halwa," a treat he would eagerly visit the cafe for after school. "You only got it here," he reminisces. "I’ve never found anything like it anywhere else."
In a rapidly changing world, Cafe Dhakuli remains a warm and welcoming reminder of the past, a place where flavours and memories intertwine, and where the tradition continues to thrive.
